Boxer is a small room made of oak, plaster, felt and restraint.

Closed to the street, it seats barely a dozen guests on its hand-made stools. The prosaic workings of a reinvented bar service are integrated into quiet, seamless benches.

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Warm towels and iced stemware are pulled from slatted timber and hidden drawers. A record slowly spins in lamplight, chasing the luscious revolutions of the rotovap. It is dark but for the puddle of warmth at the table. Our work is only the emotional frame for the extraordinary distillations and agings of these young brave chefs of liquor.

Photographer Sam Hartnett